#226

RE: Hemden

in Style 20.01.2014 10:42
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

Wo ich schon beim Thema Ivy Shop und Squire Shop bin, hier noch etwas mehr (auch wenn es jetzt nichts mit Hemden zu tun hat) von Peter alias "Richmond Hill", der dort als Teenager gearbeitet hat:

I worked in the Squire Shop in 1970 as a Saturday Boy, in my late teens to supplement my wages and get a reasonable discount. Generally there were two themes with an degree of interchangeability. The (sharp) Ivy League was one look that was favoured by the suedeheads and the other was a more continental IL look that had been imported from France. Similar IL elements, but stylised. Shetland crew and rollneck sweaters were cropped short, trousers were high waisted ,very slightly flared with a back buckle. They looked fine with loafers (can't believe I have just written that.....flares). Shirts still button down and others cutaway. This look was influenced by the teenage "Minets", who used to frequent the Drugstore in the Champs Elyses.

Paris in the 60/70s also had several Ivy League influenced shops, Harvard, Princeton, Harrison. I think that the last one is still in Paris in the 16th.
The Squire Shop also had a number of sister shops, Village Gate, Cassidy which had moved furture away from the IL look and the group expanded quite rapidly in the early 70's into the Kings Road, Knightsbridge and Kensington and even Oxford Street. JS was long gone and the group of shops imploded, for a variety of reasons.
Quincy also had a couple of good shops in Brewer Street, Shepherds Market and the Kings Road.
Ivy Shop carried on doing business in Richmond, Wembley and a couple of other locations, not always doing IL and I can remember in the early 70s buying a black velvet suit.
Thats all that springs to mind at the moment.

Bashed this out quickly and will give the issue more thought.

Also as a New Member trying to crack how I can post some images on this and other subjects.....I'll get there.


RH


http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=2937


derselbe Poster im selben Thread:


I remember the four styles of shoe that used to be sold in the Ivy Shop/Squire Shop in the late 60s
Loafers - Plain and tasseled
Royal Brogues (wing Tips)
Royal Plain
Gibson Split toe (quite rare)

Most of the above were commonly worn by the numerous black and white US service men that used to frequent the Flamingo Club in Soho in the mid sixties.

I can only assume that the word Royal, derived from Florsheim Royal Imperials that were manufactured in the USA in the 50s onwards Florsheim also had big US military contracts and Royal Plains were a standard issue to certain ranks. Which would explain why the US service men wore them. Mods picked up on this along with Khaki trousers that would have been worn off base.

The military issue ones came with a high shine or aniline finish so that it made maintainence easier.

Royals are a handsome brut of a shoe and I believe that there were also available with a triple sole for longer life.

Check out 1966 in the Florsheim website

http://www.florsheim.com/shop-fl/history.ep

Florsheim also still make shoes of a similar style called Kenmoor. Whether they are still USA made I will have to check.

http://www.robertsshoestore.com/florshe … perial.jpg


When they were USA made they were well made, not in the Alden or Allen Edmonds league, but value for money.

This is one happy customer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dgKTpUOn8ps

Some companies market a wing tip, tasseled loafer, which IMHO is neither fish nor foul. Too much detail and I think that it is best to stick to basics


RH


If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

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#227

RE: Hemden

in Style 20.01.2014 12:09
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

das Spektrum der Casual Shirts

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_matcy7...1jvro1_1280.jpg

nach Alan Flusser

Keine Floralen Muster, Foulard- oder Paisley-Prints zu finden. Nicht mal Tartan-Cotton-Flannel oder Madras...

Als Ivy-Fan trage ich die blauen Oxfords natürlich auch als dress shirts. Und ein avocadogrün wie bei Miles auf Milestones finde ich cooler als maisgelb.

Hier noch Hemden für Herbst/ Winter

http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_marfly...1jvro1_1280.jpg

von Flusser


If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

zuletzt bearbeitet 20.01.2014 12:11 | nach oben springen

#228

RE: Hemden

in Style 20.01.2014 16:47
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

#229

RE: Hemden

in Style 23.03.2014 19:23
von Beatler90 • Lichtgestalt | 705 Beiträge

Endlich gekauft:



Selten so lange um ein Hemd rumgeschlichen, bis ich es gekauft habe...aber irgendwie fühle ich jetzt eine gewisse Leere - benötige dringenst ein neues Objekt der Begierde!


Look, I don't wanna be the same as everybody else. That's why I'm a Mod, see? I mean, you gotta be somebody, ain't ya, or you might as well jump in the sea and drown. (Jimmy Cooper, Quadrophenia)

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#230

RE: Hemden

in Style 25.03.2014 19:56
von Dani4ka • Forumsgott | 1.076 Beiträge

Da wirds doch sicher was geben, forder mal 'nen Katalog von trimfit UK an. ;)


You know me - I'm acting dumb. You know the scene - very humdrum. Boredom.
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#231

RE: Hemden

in Style 25.03.2014 20:38
von Beatler90 • Lichtgestalt | 705 Beiträge

Wie ist denn da die Preisspanne? Prinzipiell finde ich das Konzept gut, möchte aber eigentlich nicht mehr als 100? für ein Hemd zahlen.


Look, I don't wanna be the same as everybody else. That's why I'm a Mod, see? I mean, you gotta be somebody, ain't ya, or you might as well jump in the sea and drown. (Jimmy Cooper, Quadrophenia)

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#232

RE: Hemden

in Style 29.06.2014 07:03
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

zuletzt bearbeitet 29.06.2014 07:25 | nach oben springen

#233

RE: Hemden

in Style 29.06.2014 07:32
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

Was Schnäppchen angeht, kann ich nur erneut Lands End empfehlen!

Bd mit 3. Knopp, guter Schnitt, anständige Qualität, große Auswahl an Lang- und Kurzärmeln, Oxford, Chambray, Seersucker, Madras, Gingham, Tattersall...

Günstiger geht nicht! Trotzdem koschere Hemden!


If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

#234

RE: Hemden

in Style 29.06.2014 07:58
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

#235

RE: Hemden

in Style 03.07.2014 11:36
von Beatler90 • Lichtgestalt | 705 Beiträge

Endlich habe ich ein OCBD in blau in meiner Größe gefunden! Claudio hatte es die ganze Zeit im Shop und ich Dulli habs übersehen:




Look, I don't wanna be the same as everybody else. That's why I'm a Mod, see? I mean, you gotta be somebody, ain't ya, or you might as well jump in the sea and drown. (Jimmy Cooper, Quadrophenia)

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#236

RE: Hemden

in Style 03.07.2014 12:55
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

Schöner heller Blauton!


If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

#237

RE: Hemden

in Style 03.07.2014 16:53
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

via Nick Rossi und Syllabus:


If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

#238

RE: Hemden

in Style 05.07.2014 17:32
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

Noch was für Daniil:



Ad from Let It Rock mag Oct 1973


If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

#239

RE: Hemden

in Style 05.07.2014 17:49
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

#240

RE: Hemden

in Style 05.07.2014 18:03
von Justin Beaver • Forumsgott | 3.112 Beiträge

Noch mal Chris ca. 1970 in einem Hemd aus dem Squire Shop:



Das war sicherlich auch ein französisches.


If attending a teenage party, or in fact one of any other kind, I’d naturally wear my sharpest, coolest ensemble - possibly even my ivy-league outfit a GI got for me last year from his PX.

Young, good looking, crew cut, Ivy League, advertising exec type fruit holds the door back for me. I am evidently his idea of a character …

I wear ivy league jackets, white buckskin shoes// so many tickets down the scene honey....

nach oben springen

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